Η δημοσίευση των ταυτοτήτων στο βιβλίο "The Hrtkovci Affair" ισοδυναμεί με εκφοβισμό, σύμφωνα με τους εισαγγελείς. http://www.setimes.com/
Publishing the identities in the book "The Hrtkovci Affair" amounts to intimidation, according to prosecutors.
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60600||63200||Mount Everest...||
63700||67200||Twenty-nine thousand feet...||
67200||72800||The highest point on Earth...||
73000||75100||Captivating and deadly.||
76800||79700||In the 1920s,~to conquer this mountain||
79700||84100||was the greatest challenge remaining~in a golden age of adventure.||
87500||90700||Everest was the edge of heaven,||
90700||94600||where many believed~no human could survive.||
96700||99000||But not George Mallory.||
122000||128200||"Everest is the last~great conquest for man...||
128200||130900||The Wildest Dream."||
145500||149800||George Mallory dreamed of being~the first man to climb Everest.||
149900||153100||On June 8, 1924,||
153100||156600||dressed in gabardine~and hobnailed boots,||
156600||159500||he and his fellow climber,~Sandy Irvine,||
159600||162900||were last seen~800 feet below the summit.||
166800||170300||Then the clouds rolled in...||
170500||172900||They were never seen alive again.||
176000||182000||Many believed that almost 30 years~before Everest was officially conquered,||
182100||186800||George Mallory was the first man~to set foot on the top of the world.||
212100||216000||Seventy-five years after~Mallory and Irvine vanished,||
216000||219800||mountaineer Conrad Anker~took part in an expedition||
219900||222800||looking for their bodies~high on Everest.||
225600||227300||Conrad, come in please.||
228900||232100||I'm down at 26,7 - over.||
233600||235200||Anker struck off on his own.||
236600||238700||Conrad, you're way below~the search zone.||
238700||240000||You need to be higher - over.||
241600||243200||I was curious.||
243300||246600||I stopped, turned around...||
246600||249800||and there was a patch of white.||
249900||253100||It wasn't snow; it was matte -||
253200||258400||a light-absorbing color, like marble.||
270200||276100||As I got closer,~I realized this was the body||
276200||278800||of one of the pioneering~English climbers,||
278800||281100||frozen onto the mountainside.||
286700||289100||For a moment I thought...||
289200||293900||maybe I can just keep walking~and keep it to myself.||
298700||302300||But then,~that's what we were there for.||
307300||310000||Group Meeting.||
310100||313000||Mandatory group meeting - over.||
337300||340100||Here, wait!~This is George Mallory!||
341000||343900||Oh, my God!~Oh, my God!||
344800||347200||You see that?~George Mallory.||
347200||349100||Oh, my God!||
367000||368500||George Mallory and I -||
368700||374400||our two paths have intersected~75 years apart.||
380300||387300||My aunt called me and said~in a rather small voice on the phone:||
387400||392800||"Suzie, they've found~my father's body on Mount Everest."||
392800||394900||I was amazed,||
394900||396500||I was absolutely shocked.||
398000||401000||It was very powerful to know||
401100||406000||where my grandfather was~and how he died.||
409100||413500||He had a compound fracture~of his right leg, above the ankle -||
413800||416400||fatal on Everest.||
416400||420000||His arms were outstretched~as if he had tried||
420100||422900||to dig his fingers~into the side of the mountain.||
425800||428300||He was last seen up on the ridge,||
428300||431000||heading west for the summit.||
431100||434000||But I found him far to the east.||
434100||436400||So Mallory was on his way back,||
436400||439600||maybe returning~from the summit itself.||
450100||453900||His sun goggles,~vital against the glare from the snow,||
454000||455600||were in his pocket.||
455800||458100||So it must have been getting dark.||
464200||468500||He and Irvine were tied together~by a thin cotton rope.||
477300||482600||They were tired, absolutely beat,~no energy left,||
482800||484900||minds not functioning clearly.||
525400||529100||Mallory crossed his left leg~over the broken one||
529200||531300||to ease the pain.||
533300||536000||It was a matter of minutes,||
536000||539000||a half hour at the very most,||
539000||541100||before he died.||
553500||555700||Did Mallory reach the summit||
555900||560100||almost three decades~before the first official climb?||
564900||569400||We discovered~many things on his body...||
569500||575200||Documents and letters~perfectly preserved 75 years later.||
575200||580400||His wristwatch,~rusted in at 10 after 5.||
580500||584700||The goggles that were~inside of his vest.||
585000||589500||An altimeter - the face broken~and the hands missing.||
591300||594500||But one very significant item~was missing:||
594600||597200||The photo of his wife Ruth,||
597200||599500||which he'd promised~to leave on the summit.||
602300||603700||Was the photo missing||
604000||607200||because Mallory had~reached the summit and placed it there -||
607200||610200||the ultimate tribute to his love of Ruth?||
616200||620000||He was last seen~about 800 feet below the summit,||
620100||623400||near the notoriously difficult~Second Step.||
628100||631600||If Mallory was able~to make it to the summit in 1924,||
631700||635800||he and Irvine would have had~to have climbed this overhanging cliff||
636000||637700||at about 28,000 feet.||
640300||644600||There's never been a confirmed~free climb of the Second Step.||
644700||646400||Everyone who climbs it today||
646400||649100||uses a metal ladder~bolted to the rock||
649100||652100||by Chinese climbers in 1975.||
654300||656500||I want to go back to Everest||
656600||659800||to try and climb~the Second Step,||
660000||663400||under the very same conditions~Mallory faced.||
665700||670700||It was a pure cliff~when Mallory and Irvine approached it.||
670700||672800||No one had ever been there.||
673000||676700||It would have been~an incredible feat of climbing||
676700||678800||if they had pulled that off.||
685200||688800||Adventure, risk...||
689100||691400||There are some people~that thrive on it,||
691400||692800||that seek it out,||
693100||695500||they want to~push their own limits.||
699100||701300||Mallory is one of those people.||
709100||711800||Mallory grew up in Cheshire,~Northern England.||
713500||718200||He made his first fateful climb~in Mobberley, his home village.||
721800||725300||Mallory's father was a vicar~here at this church.||
729400||732400||And it was here that~the young boy escaped||
732400||738300||and climbed to the top~of the church - age seven.||
738400||740900||You can imagine that...||
742400||747900||Finding climbing,~it's his true passion in life.||
770300||772800||I actually think that~some people who climb||
772800||776200||are wired a little differently~from the rest of us.||
776300||779800||My grandfather really didn't~feel fear of heights||
779800||784900||or precipices or anything like that.||
785200||790700||He had a way of climbing that was~not quite like everyone else's.||
790800||793800||His arms and legs would~just sort of eat up a mountain||
793900||797700||and he would start~flowing over it like a wave.||
802600||806500||Aged 19, Mallory entered~the University of Cambridge||
806600||809600||at a time of great cultural upheaval.||
812600||815400||When Mallory arrived~in Cambridge in 1905||
815500||818900||he pitched into this ferment~and bubble of ideas,||
819200||823800||excitement, intellectual,~sexual, social, secret societies.||
825800||829000||He obviously possessed~some remarkable charisma,||
829200||832300||sort of charmed presence~that drew the eye,||
832300||834200||compelled the gaze.||
838200||842400||"My mind is in a state~of constant rebellion.||
842500||844900||I believe that will always be so."||
846200||849800||He was a dreamer...||
849900||855300||And he was in Cambridge at a time~of great and powerful dreaming.||
855400||859300||And eventually that dream~took its form in the shape of Everest.||
863600||866900||This was the golden age of exploration.||
866900||869000||Mallory watched~with the rest of the world||
869200||872400||as explorers from America,~Norway, and Britain||
872400||875900||raced first to the North~and then the South Pole.||
879200||884400||In 1912, Captain Scott,~the legendary British adventurer,||
884500||888400||died in the attempt~to be the first to the South Pole.||
888400||891800||Mallory was among those~inspired by the tragedy.||
893300||895900||Britain is at the waning~of the empire at this time.||
896000||898800||It is looking for ways~to reinvigorate itself.||
898800||904000||So attention inevitably turns~to Everest as the final possibility -||
904300||905600||The Third Pole.||
908800||913600||Surveyors had calculated that Everest~was the highest mountain in the world.||
913700||917400||But no Westerner had~ever been within 40 miles.||
919300||923400||Mallory became obsessed~by a mountain he'd never even seen.||
925500||928700||"Everest is the highest mountain~in the world.||
928700||932300||No man has reached its summit.||
932400||937500||"Its existence is a challenge~to man's desire to conquer the universe."||
945800||949400||Mallory wasn't just~enthralled with Everest...||
952300||956800||He had also fallen in love~with 21-year-old Ruth Turner.||
959400||962800||Right from the start,~they wrote each other adoring letters.||
964900||966600||"My darling,"||
966700||969000||I'm longing for you.||
969000||972600||I would kiss your lips~and look into your eyes||
972600||977000||and you, you,~you all near me and with me,||
977000||981300||"strong and glorious~and loving and laughing."||
982900||986000||"I cannot find words~that would be sure||
986100||988600||to convey what I feel about you.||
988700||991100||What I really want~is to know you||
991100||994600||and to love you more and more.||
994600||998000||"Dearest and most beloved,~your loving Ruth."||
999500||1005400||George and my grandmother Ruth~fell madly in love in 1914.||
1005400||1006900||They were both idealists,||
1006900||1010500||really seeing kindred spirits~in each other.||
1010500||1015900||They were married three days~before the start of World War I.||
1018900||1021800||Mallory enlisted~and came face to face||
1021800||1023600||with death once more,||
1023700||1025100||fighting in the Somme,||
1025400||1027600||the bloodiest battle~known to man.||
1031800||1034800||"There is no reckoning~with death here.||
1034800||1038500||Life presents itself~very much to me as a gift."||
1040100||1044200||Mallory had witnessed~the mass slaughter of the first World War.||
1044400||1047800||His fellow soldiers,~some of them six feet away,||
1047800||1050200||killed by German shelling.||
1050400||1053000||He knew how fragile life was.||
1053000||1056900||And knowing this,~he wanted to live it to the fullest.||
1057000||1059900||He wanted the ultimate challenge.||
1060000||1063600||And that, in the 20s,~was Mount Everest.||
1066600||1068200||Once the war was over,||
1068400||1070900||the Royal Geographical Society~in London||
1071000||1074600||planned the first-ever~expedition to Everest.||
1077400||1081100||They needed Mallory~for his supreme climbing skills;||
1081200||1085100||He needed their backing~to realize his obsession.||
1091600||1096000||When Mallory undertook~that first expedition in 1921,||
1096000||1100600||he had to approach Everest~through Tibet from the north.||
1100600||1104800||The Nepalese refused to allow~access to the easier south side||
1104800||1109200||used when Everest was first~officially climbed in 1953.||
1111000||1113600||After an eight-week journey,||
1113600||1116000||Mallory finally set eyes~on the mountain||
1116000||1118100||that had haunted him for so long.||
1121000||1126600||"Like the wildest creation of a dream -~Everest!"||
1126600||1129000||A rugged giant...||
1129100||1132100||A prodigious white fang...||
1132200||1135600||A colossal rock plastered with snow.||
1135600||1137900||From the mountaineer's point of view,||
1138000||1141200||"no more appalling sight~could be imagined."||
1142900||1144700||When he first saw Everest,||
1144700||1147900||he describes it~really almost as an adversary.||
1147900||1151600||It's very beautiful,~but also ugly or frightful,||
1151700||1153600||like an ogre.||
1158700||1160000||There were no maps.||
1160100||1162100||No one knew the terrain there.||
1162100||1166200||And this first trip, the trip of 1921,||
1166200||1169800||it was imperative~that the team find the route||
1169800||1171500||that would lead them~to the summit.||
1181500||1184000||For months, Mallory led the search,||
1184100||1187000||but the route~to the summit eluded him.||
1192700||1196900||Finally, late in August,~he found what he was looking for...||
1209100||1212700||An enormous glacial valley~that snaked for miles||
1212700||1217200||around the other giant peaks~towards the very foot of Everest.||
1229600||1231100||"My dearest Ruth,||
1231100||1234200||We have found our way~to the great mountain."||
1240600||1246400||At the end of the valley was a wall~of snow and ice 1,000 feet high.||
1246600||1250800||It led up to a crest~that Mallory named 'The North Col. '||
1257200||1259600||And then on to the top of the world.||
1264000||1267900||"We have established~our way to the summit||
1267900||1271400||for anyone who cares to try~the highest adventure."||
1280900||1284400||But the heavy snow that comes~with the monsoon each summer||
1284700||1287400||quickly made climbing impossible.||
1287700||1289000||They had to head home.||
1295100||1299900||But within six months,~Mallory was back again...||
1299900||1304200||this time with film cameras,~to show Everest to the world.||
1309700||1312800||He climbed higher~than anyone else before him.||
1319700||1321100||But late in the season,||
1321100||1325000||as Mallory led porters up the mountain,~disaster struck.||
1327400||1330100||A great snowfall had come.||
1330200||1334800||They got to a delicate place~on this massive ice slope||
1334800||1336300||and triggered an avalanche.||
1355100||1357200||"My dearest Ruth,"||
1357300||1360200||Seven brave men killed...||
1360200||1363000||and I am to blame.||
1363000||1365300||It has happened forever||
1365300||1368400||"and I can do nothing~to make it good."||
1372100||1375500||After the avalanche,~when George returned to Europe,||
1375700||1378400||he really had no wish~to go back to Everest.||
1378400||1380400||He just wanted to get away||
1380400||1382200||from the deprivation~and the danger,||
1382300||1384100||and also the memories~of that avalanche.||
1391200||1394100||He had been away~for a very long period||
1394200||1395900||over two successive years.||
1395900||1398300||He wanted to get back~to his wife and his family.||
1404000||1406300||They had three children.||
1406300||1410400||My mother was the~second daughter of George Mallory.||
1410400||1414500||And at this point, I think,~he was really starting||
1414500||1418500||to think about wanting~to be home more,||
1418800||1420900||to be with Ruth more,||
1421000||1425000||and to address himself~to raising the kids.||
1430500||1433400||But a new expedition~was being planned...||
1436300||1440200||And Mallory desperately~wanted to be part of it -||
1440200||1442300||against Ruth's wishes.||
1443400||1446100||"I love you and you love me,"||
1446100||1449200||and that ought to be~happiness enough for a lifetime.||
1449300||1451300||But I do want you.||
1451400||1454100||We want to live together~all the time||
1454200||1458300||and share thoughts~and joys and sorrows.||
1458400||1462100||"And we can't apart~as we can together."||
1463300||1467300||"I am having a horrible time,~on a tightrope."||
1467400||1469500||It would be~an awful tug going away||
1469600||1473000||instead of settling down~here with Ruth.||
1473000||1475600||But it would look rather grim~to see others,||
1475800||1478500||"without me,~conquering the summit."||
1484200||1486900||Mallory clearly loved Ruth very dearly.||
1486900||1491000||She was his sweet, domestic,~beloved partner||
1491100||1494400||who represented all that was~appealing about home, family,||
1494400||1497000||the flatlands of Cambridge,~at sea level.||
1499500||1502400||But Everest represented~all that was exciting,||
1502500||1504600||adventurous, visionary, mystical.||
1507100||1510000||His personality was pulled~between those two poles.||
1518300||1522100||Early in 1923,~the crisis came to a head||
1522200||1527100||when Mallory sailed to America~to speak about his Everest adventures.||
1531200||1535300||He was the star turn at the~Explorers Club in New York.||
1536900||1542200||I can just imagine the audience~on the edge of their seats||
1542200||1546300||as Mallory told them~about the biting wind,||
1546300||1551300||the lack of appetite,~the fierce cold.||
1553900||1557000||A New York Times journalist~asked the question,||
1557100||1560200||"Why climb Everest?"||
1560300||1563200||Mallory gave his legendary reply...||
1566200||1570300||"Because it's there."||
1577100||1581400||Three words that have probably become~more famous than Mallory himself,||
1581500||1585600||suggests a sort of fatalism~bubbling away in Mallory.||
1585600||1589200||The mountain remains,~it's unclimbed,||
1589200||1592600||and so the quest remains.||
1592600||1595600||And he is the man~who is locked into||
1595600||1598400||this almost fairytale relationship~with the mountain.||
1598400||1602500||He's been twice and he must~go back for the third time.||
1608200||1612400||I think that the idea that someone else~would build on his progress||
1612400||1616500||and get to the summit on his shoulders~was quite difficult for him to accept.||
1616500||1620100||It was, after all, his route~and his mountain.||
1620200||1624100||It is actually a surprisingly selfish thing~for someone like Mallory to experience.||
1624200||1628200||But then mountaineers all do have this~kind of element of selfishness deep down.||
1635000||1636800||Aged 38,||
1637000||1639600||this was Mallory's last chance~to conquer the mountain.||
1658100||1661100||Conrad Anker~will follow Mallory's footsteps,||
1661200||1663500||leading his own expedition~to Everest||
1663600||1665100||and the Second Step.||
1669700||1673700||During his climb,~Conrad plans to test clothes and boots||
1673700||1676400||modeled on those he found~on Mallory's body.||
1681200||1683700||Using this replica clothing,||
1683700||1686300||I'm going to have this chance~to go back and see||
1686300||1690400||what it was like for Mallory~to try climbing Everest in 1924.||
1696500||1699200||But like Mallory,~Conrad is torn between||
1699200||1702200||his passion for Everest~and his love for his family.||
1703600||1706400||My family's~anxious about this trip.||
1706400||1708800||I'm going to Everest...||
1709100||1711300||It's a deadly mountain.||
1711400||1712800||What's it worth?||
1713100||1715400||Is it worth~leaving your kids behind?||
1715500||1717600||Why are you going~to this mountain?||
1717600||1719600||Are you going to be safe?||
1719700||1721800||You know I love you.||
1722100||1723700||And I can see there,||
1723800||1726700||as I was trying to rationalize it~to my wife and children||
1726700||1729900||that it's a safe thing~and it's a fine thing to go on Everest||
1730100||1731500||and it's a noble thing,||
1731500||1735500||that these were the same answers~Mallory had for Ruth.||
1737100||1741200||I know what it's like to be~the wife of a climber.||
1741200||1743400||And I know what it's like to be||
1743400||1745500||the wife of a climber~who doesn't come home.||
1748200||1750100||Jennifer was previously married||
1750200||1754300||to one of America's~finest mountaineers, Alex Lowe,||
1754300||1757500||Conrad's climbing partner~and closest friend.||
1760300||1763400||Just a few months~after finding Mallory's body,||
1763400||1767500||Conrad was climbing with Alex~when the mountains claimed another life.||
1769300||1771200||An avalanche struck Alex and I||
1771300||1773500||as we were climbing~in the Himalayas.||
1773500||1777400||He died and I was~three feet away from him.||
1780400||1784600||You could look at him~and tell that he was burdened||
1784700||1788400||with this world of guilt and grief,||
1788400||1792300||that somehow he could have~prevented Alex's death.||
1795900||1798300||In the aftermath of this tragedy,||
1798300||1799900||we communicated with each other||
1799900||1803900||and eventually~we grew to fall in love.||
1803900||1806900||It wasn't just Jennifer~that my love grew for,||
1807200||1808800||it was also the boys.||
1810500||1814300||Jennifer must really like climbers~to willingly bring me into her life||
1814300||1816800||and then marry~and have me adopt the boys,||
1816800||1819800||because she knows~it's downright dangerous work.||
1822700||1825900||Boys, look what I found downstairs.||
1825900||1829700||- Wow!~- Good God!||
1830500||1832200||Is this my Halloween costume||
1832300||1834600||or is this what~I'm going up Everest in?||
1834700||1837400||- You guys are laughing.~- You look like Inspector Gadget.||
1837500||1839000||You're supposed to take me serious.||
1839200||1840600||Mom can appreciate it.||
1840600||1842500||It's amazing to think of those guys||
1842500||1845200||going for the summit~in clothing like that.||
1847300||1849400||Would you climb Everest in that suit?||
1849400||1851700||- No.~- What would you wear?||
1851800||1853700||I wouldn't climb Everest.||
1872300||1874200||Before climbing Everest,||
1874300||1877900||Mallory had to choose~his climbing partner.||
1877900||1882700||Among the candidates was~a 21-year-old chemistry student,||
1882800||1887000||Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine -~a mountaineering novice.||
1890300||1892800||My great uncle Sandy Irvine~took life by the horns,||
1892800||1895400||and if there was an opportunity~that presented itself to him||
1895500||1896900||he would take it.||
1896900||1899400||He loved the theater,~he loved cars,||
1899400||1901300||and above all he loved women.||
1901300||1903600||And he had this~very indiscreet love affair||
1903700||1906600||with his~best friend's step-mother.||
1906700||1909400||It was a terrible scandal.||
1912700||1917000||But Sandy Irvine was first~and foremost an oarsman.||
1917300||1920300||And when he got to Oxford~he was selected to take part||
1920300||1922500||in the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race.||
1924600||1928500||The annual boat race was the most~prestigious sporting event of the day.||
1937600||1939100||They were victorious.||
1939300||1941500||And what Mallory saw in Sandy||
1941600||1944800||was this extraordinary ability~that great oarsmen have,||
1944800||1946800||which is to row through pain,||
1946900||1951800||to push himself almost beyond~normal human limit.||
1953900||1957100||But there was another reason~for choosing Irvine.||
1957300||1959100||Mallory needed someone technical||
1959300||1963300||to master the oxygen equipment~vital at high altitude.||
1963400||1966600||And unlike Mallory,~Irvine was very practical.||
1967900||1970600||Sandy asked the~Mount Everest committee||
1970600||1974400||to send him a 1922 set,~plus the drawings.||
1974500||1977600||And he spent hours and hours~in his rooms in Oxford||
1977600||1979800||trying to make it serviceable,||
1979900||1983800||trying to make it lighter,~stronger and less fragile,||
1983900||1988000||so that the climbers could~use it with greater confidence.||
1988000||1992500||And so the fact that Sandy was~so practical with the apparatus,||
1992500||1994900||I think, made it quite clear~in Mallory's mind||
1994900||1997900||that he was a useful man~to have climbing with him.||
2006800||2008900||Conrad Anker has also chosen||
2008900||2012900||a young Englishman~as his climbing partner - Leo Houlding.||
2012900||2017000||Like Irvine, Leo is young,~strong, a natural athlete||
2017100||2019400||and has never climbed~at high altitude.||
2020800||2023000||The 90-feet high Second Step||
2023100||2025800||will be a dangerous venture~into the unknown.||
2031400||2033100||I'm definitely concerned~about the altitude||
2033100||2034800||and the acclimatization process,||
2034800||2037600||just because I've never~been high enough before||
2037700||2039200||to know whether, you know,||
2039400||2042200||I might be one of those people~that it doesn't gel with.||
2045700||2047500||I don't want to let Conrad down||
2047500||2049900||and I'm sure Irvine~felt some of that pressure.||
2090900||2095800||Leo's never been to altitude,~this unknown.||
2095900||2100200||And you can't walk into~a hospital and take a test||
2100500||2103800||that will come back and say,~oh, you'll do well at altitude.||
2103900||2105200||Some people do really well.||
2105500||2107100||But I've seen fit people||
2107100||2109800||doubled over~and with splitting headaches.||
2117100||2120700||Being invited to climb the highest~mountain in the world with Conrad,||
2120800||2123000||one of the best climbers~in his generation,||
2123000||2124900||is such a privilege.||
2125000||2128300||For Irvine, being invited~to climb with George Mallory,||
2128500||2131500||the best climber of his generation,~on the unclimbed Mount Everest -||
2131600||2133500||I just can't imagine~how he must have felt.||
2135000||2139600||"I am walking on metaphorical air."||
2139600||2144000||We shall go all out for the summit.||
2144000||2148700||If I have to die,~then there would be no finer death||
2148800||2151600||"than in an attempt to conquer Everest."||
2155200||2160700||On February 29, 1924,~Mallory set sail from Liverpool,||
2160800||2163300||after making Ruth~a solemn promise.||
2164500||2167300||As my grandfather~was leaving England||
2167500||2169300||and leaving my grandmother,||
2169500||2173700||he told her that he would leave~a photograph of her||
2173700||2176700||at the top of Mount Everest.||
2176700||2180600||And I think he was pretty confident~that he would get there||
2180700||2183600||and that he would~leave that photograph.||
2186900||2189100||With the eyes of the world upon them,||
2189100||2193100||Mallory and Irvine set out~on the three-week voyage for India.||
2206900||2211900||Late that March, their convoy~began its 350-mile trek.||
2228900||2231400||Five thousand miles apart,||
2231600||2235400||Mallory and Ruth~wrote to each other frequently.||
2235600||2238700||Couriers carried their letters~across the world,||
2238700||2241600||and after the months of tension~they had gone through,||
2241600||2243300||he and Ruth made up.||
2244600||2248000||"I do miss you a lot."||
2248000||2252600||I know I have rather often~been cross and not nice,||
2252700||2254800||and I am very sorry.||
2254900||2258000||I was unhappy~at getting so little of you.||
2258000||2261800||Very, very much love~to you, my dear one,||
2261800||2263600||"Your loving Ruth."||
2267800||2269600||"Dearest one,"||
2269700||2273000||We went through a difficult~time together in the autumn.||
2273000||2276300||Your letters bring you much nearer.||
2276300||2278900||"I wish I had you with me."||
2281000||2284900||We can think of the relationship~between Mallory, Everest and Ruth||
2284900||2286800||as a kind of love triangle.||
2286900||2290200||When he was at home with Ruth~he was dreaming of Everest.||
2290200||2292900||When he was away with~Everest he was dreaming of Ruth -||
2292900||2296400||until a certain point, until he got~sufficiently close to the mountain||
2296700||2299000||that it cast its spell over him.||
2315800||2319800||The convoy of 300 pack animals~and 70 porters||
2319900||2322200||journeyed through Tibet.||
2323800||2328200||Provisions included four cases~of Montebello Champagne||
2328200||2331200||and 60 tins of quail and foie gras.||
2334300||2338200||On April 25th, 17,000 feet up,||
2338300||2341300||they reached the last pass~before Everest -||
2341400||2342900||Pang La.||
2353900||2355100||The Pang-La is the pass||
2355200||2358200||where you get the first~stunning view of Everest, right?||
2358300||2360200||Yeah, and it's this vista.||
2360200||2363200||You've got five of the world's~highest peaks in one view.||
2378300||2379900||That's Everest.||
2384000||2385100||Wow.||
2392000||2395000||It's so much bigger~than all the other ones, isn't it?||
2395100||2396300||Yeah.||
2397900||2401400||It's really special that we haven't~had any sign of the mountain,||
2401400||2403400||and then you drive up~to this high pass||
2403400||2406900||and then she just~reveals herself in all her glory...||
2407000||2409300||you know, Chomolungma,~Mother Goddess of the Earth,||
2409400||2411000||the mountain we call Everest.||
2411000||2412500||Just... bang!||
2419800||2424300||This wonderful photograph,~taken on the 26th of April, 1924,||
2424300||2426100||is pretty amazing.||
2426100||2430000||See Everest there,~there's Mallory, Irvine,||
2430100||2433500||a couple of their Sherpas~they had with them and their pony.||
2435200||2437900||This is almost exactly~the same spot, right?||
2437900||2439100||Pretty close.||
2439100||2441600||And they spent three weeks~trekking on the plateau||
2441800||2445200||to get to this point,~to be able to see it.||
2445200||2447600||And they were on their feet,~they'd walked every day.||
2447800||2450800||I mean, you think for us~to get here we've been in a Jeep.||
2457200||2460100||On April 29th, Mallory and Irvine||
2460100||2464000||set up their center of operations -~Base Camp -||
2464000||2465900||12 miles from the summit.||
2481200||2485200||Like Mallory, Conrad will~rely heavily on Sherpa porters,||
2485300||2488100||accustomed to high altitude.||
2488100||2491200||But this is a still~a dangerous mountain.||
2491300||2495500||Over 200 people have died here -~among them, many Sherpas.||
2496300||2498400||Well, most important is safety.||
2498400||2503600||Ten fingers, ten toes,~one nose, all come back...||
2503900||2506500||- Two eyes!~- Yes, two eyes!||
2508300||2511500||And if you see something with us,~if we look sick,||
2511500||2515500||then you tell us and say,~"Go down!"||
2545300||2547400||Before one embarks~on an expedition,||
2547400||2552100||it's customary to have a puja,~which is a blessing ceremony.||
2552100||2556100||As Chomolungma is~Mother Goddess of the Earth,||
2556200||2561700||the mountain is a deity~for the Tibetans and the Sherpas.||
2561900||2565300||Safe passage depends~upon having a good puja.||
2590200||2592200||Ho!||
2597000||2598700||Good luck, everybody!||
2601500||2602700||Lots of luck.||
2611500||2614400||The Monks from the~ancient monastery nearby||
2614400||2616700||gave Mallory a very mixed welcome||
2616700||2620300||when he approached their~sacred mountain, Chomolungma.||
2635300||2638800||It was 83 years ago~on this day, May 15th,||
2639000||2641200||that Mallory~and his team came here||
2641300||2643400||for a blessing from the lama.||
2651400||2655000||The head lama welcomed~the strange white climbers,||
2655100||2657600||but it was an ominous encounter.||
2663400||2665200||Along with the blessing,||
2665200||2669500||the lama had a very stern warning~for the expedition.||
2669600||2671800||He spoke of disaster to come,||
2672000||2674300||prophesying that~the mountain's demons||
2674400||2677500||would delight in forcing~the climbers off Everest.||
2680600||2683700||The monks had even~created an illustration,||
2683700||2685700||a very gruesome one,||
2685700||2689200||of the Gods disemboweling~a western man||
2689200||2691300||and pitching him into hell.||
2693500||2695800||It must have been~a terrifying moment for Mallory.||
2696100||2698400||He was not a superstitious man,~but I think it would have been||
2698500||2702700||hard to be in that landscape~at that time on the third expedition||
2703400||2706000||And not feel the atmosphere~to be saturated||
2706100||2710200||with signs and portent~and hints and forebodings.||
2716400||2718200||Despite the bad omens,||
2718300||2722100||Mallory hoped that this time~he'd summit the mountain.||
2724000||2725900||The weather was good.||
2725900||2729100||He planned to reach~the top of Everest by mid-May,||
2729100||2731800||to beat the snows~that came with the monsoon.||
2745100||2750300||On May 2, 1924, the giant convoy~of climbers and porters||
2750300||2752900||made its way out of Base Camp.||
2764100||2766000||"My dearest Ruth,||
2766100||2771400||The thought of you will be present~in the most important decisions...||
2771500||2774200||I am eager for~the great events to begin."||
2778900||2783200||Mallory realized that~the way to attack Everest||
2783200||2788300||was a series of camps,~almost militaristic in style.||
2788400||2792100||You go some way up,~then come back down,||
2792100||2795900||recuperate,~and then move back up.||
2796000||2798200||It's how you acclimatize.||
2798200||2800200||He pioneered this technique,||
2800200||2804300||and it's the one~we still use on Everest today.||
2825000||2827500||Conrad and Leo~follow Mallory's route||
2827500||2831600||through a forest~of ice pinnacles, up to Camp 3.||
2847500||2852400||You definitely can't cheat or hide~from altitude and acclimatization.||
2852500||2854600||It just makes everything~really hard work.||
2857400||2859700||- This is it, Leo.~- Finally.||
2859900||2862100||Camp 3 for 1924.||
2865900||2871600||At Camp 3, altitude really begins~to show its nasty side effects.||
2871600||2876300||With each breath you're getting~fewer molecules of oxygen in.||
2876300||2877500||It's insidious.||
2877500||2879300||You lose your appetite,||
2879400||2881400||you have splitting headaches,||
2881400||2886300||you have a difficult time~just doing the simplest of tasks.||
2886300||2891500||And yet 9,000 feet above you,~the summit of Everest,||
2891500||2893000||and it's calling you.||
2906600||2909300||Somewhere above their Camp 2,||
2909300||2914400||Mallory and Irvine experienced~their first bout of bad weather.||
2914400||2917300||A storm came in,~the temperatures plummeted,||
2917300||2920400||and Mallory realized~it wasn't going to be||
2920500||2922700||easy street up to~the summit of Everest.||
2925400||2927500||"My dearest girl,||
2927500||2933600||I was acting as a lone horse~and arrived first in Camp 3.||
2933600||2939700||The glacier is everywhere~beneath the stones...||
2939700||2943500||My boots were frozen~hard on my feet.||
2943600||2949200||I was a good deal depressed~by the situation...||
2949300||2952000||I love you always, dear one."||
2956200||2957300||Shall we try it on?||
2957400||2961600||Yeah, I'm pretty keen~to see how this stuff works.||
2961600||2963000||Check this out.||
2967000||2969400||Can you imagine~climbing up with these things?||
2969400||2970700||They're something else.||
2972400||2975000||So I've got every layer on here.||
2975000||2977100||Mallory and Irvine~had seven layers on||
2977100||2979500||when they went for~the summit in '24.||
2979500||2983200||But the big difference~is here, in the footwear.||
2983300||2987100||I tell you, the rest of this outfit~seems pretty good.||
2987200||2990100||But compared to the boots~that we wear these days,||
2990100||2993500||these things look decidedly,~you know, inappropriate.||
2998800||3002700||Wearing hobnailed boot~and gabardine jackets,||
3002700||3005300||Conrad and Leo~venture onto the mountain.||
3008400||3011200||We were right near the spot||
3011200||3016300||where seven of Mallory's porters~lost their lives in the avalanche.||
3016300||3018800||But as in 1924,||
3019100||3023300||we were just bound together~by a thin cotton rope.||
3031500||3033500||Using Mallory's technique,||
3033500||3036600||Conrad cuts steps~into the steep ice slope.||
3040600||3042400||This is real mountain terrain.||
3042500||3043600||I mean, if you lose your footing||
3043700||3046200||you'll fall down 1,000 feet~to the base of it.||
3046200||3048200||And we need to~start being careful now,||
3048300||3051600||there's crevasses,~there's danger of avalanche.||
3053700||3055800||When you stand~on the edge of a crevasse,||
3056100||3059200||you just see this slot~disappearing down into the glacier,||
3059200||3060900||hundreds of feet deep.||
3061100||3063700||But the dangerous ones~are the ones that you can't see.||
3063800||3066600||You can be walking across~a snow bridge just a few feet thick||
3066700||3069600||and fall through it to certain death.||
3070400||3073300||- Yikes, she's deep, isn't she?~- Yeah.||
3077400||3079300||I'm right at the bridge!||
3080100||3081300||Ten feet of rope!||
3082600||3084300||Be careful, my friend.||
3100700||3105200||It's phenomenal that they~were able to get to 28,000 feet||
3105200||3108300||in what I would basically call||
3108300||3111300||clothing you'd walk through the forest.||
3115300||3116900||Good job, Leo.||
3117100||3119500||No... Good job Conrad.||
3122400||3123800||Ohhh...||
3123800||3125500||I'm knackered!||
3131600||3136500||In 1924, Mallory's team were~pinned down by weather so severe||
3136600||3139300||Sandy Irvine feared for his life.||
3140500||3142700||"May 10th...||
3142700||3146400||Had a terrible night~with wind and snow.||
3146500||3149400||I don't know how~the tent stood it.||
3149400||3151300||Very little sleep,||
3151300||3155800||and about two inches of snow~over everything in the tent.||
3155900||3158300||Awful headache this morning."||
3160300||3163600||Irvine was suffering~from altitude sickness.||
3163600||3168800||His role as Mallory's~climbing partner was now in doubt.||
3168900||3173700||The harsh conditions forced the~entire team back down to Base Camp.||
3176700||3178400||When they arrived there||
3178400||3181700||they found that two~of the staff were dead.||
3181700||3184000||Instead of preparing~for a summit bid||
3184200||3186000||they were burying people~in Base Camp.||
3186200||3189800||It must have been quite strange~for Irvine to come to terms with that.||
3192600||3196200||"One of our NCOs~suddenly got paralysis,||
3196300||3200900||probably due to a clot on the brain~from frostbitten fingers.||
3200900||3205300||The poor fellow died~within half a mile of Base Camp."||
3208200||3212000||Meanwhile, Mallory planned~another dangerous summit bid.||
3214800||3218300||But he allowed no sign~of the team's suffering to show||
3218400||3220900||in a letter to his eldest daughter, Clare.||
3223600||3224800||"My darling,||
3224800||3228800||There is not much wind today,~so it is nice and warm.||
3228800||3231600||Now tea has come~and for the first time||
3231600||3235500||since I don't know when, cake.||
3235500||3239400||Shall we have a little tea party together~one day in August,||
3239400||3244800||with a flat, warm squidgy cake~and nothing else?||
3244800||3247000||Haven't you got a greedy Daddy!||
3253600||3255900||It was already mid-May.||
3256000||3258400||And soon, the snows would come.||
3259700||3263100||The monsoon arrives~early June every year.||
3263300||3265300||It releases a tremendous~amount of snow.||
3266300||3267900||Climbing is impossible.||
3285600||3289700||We had the same challenge~as Mallory in 1924.||
3289800||3292400||We were there late in the season.||
3292500||3295600||If we didn't get up the mountain~before the monsoon hit||
3295600||3297900||we'd be in very serious trouble.||
3305800||3308400||Over 22,000 feet up,||
3308500||3311900||Conrad and Leo start~the ascent of Everest itself.||
3316900||3320900||They are on one of the most~treacherous parts of the mountain -||
3320900||3325700||the giant wall of ice and snow~that leads up to the North Col,||
3325800||3327600||the launchpad to the summit.||
3356800||3361100||Despite all the modern equipment,~the altitude hits Leo hard.||
3362900||3365600||This is the first time~I've ever been to this altitude,||
3365700||3371200||and you move so desperately slowly,~it's unreal, you just can't believe.||
3371400||3373600||You take two steps~and you're completely out of breath,||
3373700||3375800||and I'm sure it's going to~get worse as we get up.||
3393600||3396500||With hobnailed boots~and no guide-ropes,||
3396600||3399600||Mallory led the assault~on the North Col,||
3399600||3404000||cutting steps into what he called~'its great battlements of ice. '||
3406600||3409200||"The North Col was a triumph.||
3409400||3414400||I enjoyed the conquest of~the ice wall and making the steps.||
3414500||3417800||Afterwards I was~practically bust to the world."||
3419700||3421700||Looking back down the valley,||
3421700||3426600||he was already higher than~the greatest peaks in Europe or America.||
3426600||3430500||But the summit was still~6,000 feet above.||
3441600||3445800||Here on the Col, Mallory set~up his bridgehead to Everest -||
3445900||3448600||Camp 4.||
3448600||3452100||He planned higher camps~further up the mountain.||
3452200||3455800||These would take him within~striking distance of the summit.||
3457800||3461500||Mallory had a cough~that wouldn't go away,||
3461500||3465000||Irvine was suffering from diarrhea,||
3465000||3467000||and the cold never left them.||
3472600||3474300||"My dearest Ruth,||
3474500||3475900||I couldn't sleep,||
3476000||3480600||distressed with bursts of coughing~fit to tear one's guts.||
3480600||3483600||Fierce squalls visited our tents~and shook them||
3483600||3487900||with the disagreeable threat of tearing~them away from their moorings.||
3487900||3491800||There was never a more~determined and bitter enemy."||
3497500||3499300||Twenty-three thousand feet up,||
3499500||3503200||Conrad and Leo test out~Mallory's gear one last time.||
3504800||3509500||Suddenly, temperatures plummet~to 20 below freezing.||
3509600||3511300||They're in severe danger of frostbite.||
3522200||3523900||Thank you, Mingma.||
3524000||3524900||No problem.||
3533200||3536900||I can't imagine going to~8,500 meters in these boots.||
3539200||3541300||Which is my theory,||
3541600||3545900||that if those guys~were moving they were okay...||
3546000||3548900||but once they stopped moving~the clock was ticking,||
3549000||3551600||and it was a different game altogether.||
3557600||3559200||My toes are freezing.||
3564600||3569400||In '22, Mallory frostbit one of his fingers...||
3569600||3572900||And he commented that it~was bad but not that bad.||
3572900||3577700||And then as a note aside he said,||
3577700||3581900||"I wouldn't mind if~I lost a finger for this summit."||
3583300||3585600||And if I was in his shoes~I probably would have thought||
3585700||3591000||the same thing because it~was the golden age of exploration.||
3596600||3598000||Ahh, that's it.||
3598000||3599400||Come on, my beauties.||
3602800||3604700||Oh, God.||
3610800||3613100||Bad weather blocks Conrad's path||
3613200||3616000||and the monsoon snows~are imminent.||
3616000||3620900||He and Leo risk being trapped~high on Everest, beyond rescue.||
3623700||3626400||It was a stressful moment.||
3626700||3627800||What are we doing?||
3627800||3630000||We're climbing~into the second week of June,||
3630100||3632200||the monsoon's on our ass.||
3632200||3635900||I get on the phone to Jennifer,~and I say to her,||
3635900||3640000||it's not worth what I'm putting you~and the family through,||
3640100||3641800||and I'm ready to come home.||
3643900||3646400||The window was closing;~I knew the monsoon was coming.||
3646700||3650200||I was looking at the satellite~imagery of the weather.||
3650200||3651700||I said, Conrad, you know what?||
3651700||3653400||I'm looking at the computer screen||
3653700||3656100||and I'm seeing this~giant wall of weather -||
3656100||3658100||and it's the monsoon.||
3658200||3660100||And I just said, Conrad,||
3660100||3664900||you need to be confident~that you can make it.||
3665000||3668500||But if you have a chance~to climb the Second Step,||
3668700||3670100||I want you to go for it.||
3675700||3677200||"My dear one,||
3677200||3679500||What is happening to you?||
3679700||3681800||I wonder so much.||
3681800||3685300||Are you happy~and are you well?||
3685300||3689300||All the immortal love~my soul has is with you...||
3689300||3691100||Ruth."||
3693700||3696200||Early in June, 1924,||
3696200||3700000||two of Mallory's team,~Norton and Somervell,||
3700000||3705800||pushed on up the mountain,~but Everest forced them back.||
3705800||3709500||Snow-blind, Norton had~to be carried down.||
3709700||3712300||Somervell almost choked to death||
3712300||3715300||before coughing up~part of his frostbitten larynx.||
3717900||3721000||Clearly, it was time to go home.||
3721000||3724400||They were weak with exhaustion...||
3724400||3727800||The monsoon was due...||
3727800||3729900||But Mallory refused to give in.||
3732300||3734300||"My dear girl,||
3734400||3738400||This has been~a bad time altogether...||
3738400||3742000||Perhaps it's mere folly~to go up again.||
3742000||3745500||But how can I be out of the hunt?||
3745800||3750200||Six days to the top~from this camp.||
3750200||3754000||It's 50 to 1 against,~but we'll have a whack yet||
3754100||3757100||and do ourselves proud.||
3757200||3758400||Great love to you,||
3758500||3760800||ever your loving George."||
3777200||3780300||The big question~is why George Mallory||
3780300||3782400||thought it was worth~one more shot.||
3782400||3785900||I think the way to reconcile~the overriding conflict in his life,||
3785900||3788300||was actually to climb the mountain~and be done with it||
3788300||3791000||and go home to Ruth~and say I've done it,||
3791000||3794000||it's over, now we can get on~with the rest of our lives.||
3795200||3799200||He knew that this was it.||
3799200||3801600||He couldn't~come back again later||
3801800||3804100||if he didn't get to the top.||
3804100||3808600||It would be impossible~to put Ruth through that again.||
3810800||3813600||"I must tell you, dearest one,||
3813800||3818300||I feel full of energy and strength.||
3818300||3821300||My plan will be to carry~as little as possible,||
3821400||3824000||go fast, and rush the summit."||
3833900||3839500||Mallory now needed oxygen~and Irvine more than ever.||
3839500||3842000||He wanted his partner,||
3842000||3845000||now over the worst~of his altitude sickness,||
3845100||3848400||to apply his technical skills~to the final assault.||
3850400||3853900||"Irvine has been brilliantly~skillful about the oxygen.||
3853900||3857100||He has practically~invented a new instrument."||
3860600||3862400||"Fifth of June...||
3862500||3866500||It will be a great triumph~if my impromptu apparatus||
3866600||3869300||gets us to the top.||
3869300||3872000||It has been~very trying for everyone||
3872100||3875900||with terribly strong~reflection off the snow.||
3876000||3878500||I've prepared~two oxygen apparatus||
3878500||3881300||for our start tomorrow morning."||
3884400||3887900||These are the last words~written by Sandy Irvine.||
3890300||3891700||He would have gone||
3891900||3894000||wherever Mallory would have~wanted him to go,||
3894100||3897200||and I'm quite sure~that he had every intention||
3897200||3898700||of coming back from the mountain||
3898900||3901300||with both feet, both legs,~both arms intact.||
3901400||3905000||I don't think~he even entertained, truly entertained,||
3905000||3906700||the idea that he would die.||
3906900||3909400||I think he believed that~he was indestructible.||
3913300||3915000||Early on June the 6th,||
3915100||3919200||support climber Noel Odell~photographed Mallory and Irvine||
3919300||3922000||as they set out from the North Col.||
3927000||3930200||"Who could hold back~when such a victory,||
3930200||3935500||such a triumph of human endeavor~was within their grasp."||
3939000||3943700||"One must conquer, achieve,~get to the top...||
3943700||3948500||to know there's no dream~that mustn't be dared."||
3958000||3960100||There's nothing on top~of Mount Everest.||
3960200||3963100||There's not a pot of gold.||
3963100||3966200||Well, why are we doing this?||
3966300||3968100||You want the glory.||
3968100||3972200||You want that feeling~of standing on top of the world.||
3976000||3980700||Gambling on beating the monsoon,~Conrad makes his choice -||
3980700||3983500||to follow Mallory~up to the Second Step.||
3986300||3990400||We're starting our summit bid~and it's the 10th of June.||
3990400||3992000||I think the 5th of June||
3992100||3995300||is the latest anyone's~ever climbed pre-monsoon.||
3995300||3997800||The clouds in the background~are an indication||
3998000||3999400||of the monsoon rolling in,||
3999400||4003300||so we're gonna play it by ear,~one day at a time,||
4003300||4006400||but this is our window.||
4032800||4035300||It's just ridiculously tiring,||
4035300||4038300||like it feels like~someone's taking the Michael...||
4038300||4041600||You take one step~and your head's in your hands.||
4070400||4072600||That is unreal, isn't it?||
4072700||4075200||It's like an out-of-body experience.||
4087700||4090800||On June the 7th,~cameraman John Noel||
4090900||4094600||filmed the last images~of Mallory and Irvine.||
4098500||4102600||They were two miles above him~with their porters,||
4102700||4104700||climbing into the death zone,||
4104700||4106500||where the lack of oxygen||
4106500||4108800||makes it impossible~to function for long.||
4111600||4114900||In the death zone,~above 26,000 feet,||
4115100||4120900||the body enters into~what is known as necrosis...||
4121200||4122900||One is dying.||
4127200||4130500||Humans weren't meant~to survive at this altitude,||
4130600||4132500||and you're on borrowed time.||
4137700||4142200||As they enter the death zone,~Conrad and Leo use oxygen,||
4142200||4144500||like Mallory and Irvine before them.||
4155200||4156400||I was just thinking,||
4156500||4159400||oh, the death zone -~this place isn't that bad.||
4159500||4162600||All of a sudden~the first of the dead bodies||
4162700||4168400||that we encountered~appeared right by the path.||
4168500||4170000||And it was a real...||
4170200||4173000||Where else do you~walk past a dead body?||
4173200||4174400||Unless you're in a war zone||
4174500||4176600||you're never going to~witness anything like that.||
4176600||4178400||It's such an extreme environment~up there||
4178500||4180600||that no one can~do anything about it,||
4180600||4182300||they can't bring them down.||
4189500||4193600||High in the death zone,~some 2,000 feet below the summit,||
4193700||4197400||Mallory and Irvine~pitched their last camp.||
4200200||4202900||Here Mallory wrote~to cameraman John Noel,||
4202900||4206700||who was waiting further down~to film the moment of triumph.||
4208600||4209800||"Dear Noel,||
4209800||4213600||We'll probably start early tomorrow~to have clear weather.||
4213600||4215600||Start looking out for us||
4215600||4218500||either crossing the rock band~under the pyramid||
4218500||4221300||or going up the skyline at 8 p.m."||
4223300||4225900||Clearly he meant to say 8 a.m.||
4230800||4232000||He was tired.||
4232300||4234500||He had been~on expedition for three months||
4234600||4237800||and now over three days~in the death zone.||
4257800||4260500||We knew the monsoon~was imminent.||
4260600||4264800||We only had a 12-hour window...||
4264800||4267700||We had to strike~while the iron was hot.||
4268800||4271600||You're so nervous~that I woke up||
4271600||4274800||before the alarm~and turned our headlamps on,||
4274800||4277100||got all the~layering systems set up.||
4277300||4280300||When you step out of the tent~it was a bit like a starting gate.||
4280300||4281700||I was ready to go.||
4282300||4284500||Leo was so excited,||
4284500||4286900||he had that boost~of summit energy.||
4287000||4289600||It's probably similar~to what Mallory and Irvine had||
4289600||4291700||on their summit day||
4291700||4294000||when they were there~within striking distance||
4294000||4295900||of the first ascent of Everest.||
4312700||4316800||Imagine the morning~of June 8, 1924...||
4318900||4322800||They're cold,~they've had a restless night of sleep.||
4325100||4328700||Compound this with~a lack of appetite,||
4328800||4332500||severe dehydration.||
4332600||4334600||Their bodies are wasted.||
4334600||4337600||Their mental faculties~are compromised.||
4337600||4341100||Simple things~become monumental chores.||
4357400||4359500||Twenty-eight thousand feet~is at the limit||
4359600||4362400||of what is humanly possible.||
4362400||4367900||Even with supplemental oxygen,~it's very, very desperate.||
4367900||4371200||And above them is a route~that no one has ever been on.||
4371400||4372800||And when you're the first,||
4372800||4375400||overcoming this sense~of the unknown||
4375500||4377500||is one of~the greatest challenges.||
4387600||4389200||Think about it:||
4389400||4392900||The anxiety, the fear, trepidation,||
4393000||4396400||combined with the exhilaration.||
4396500||4400800||All those things stirring around||
4400800||4405700||and held fast~by pain and suffering.||
4415000||4418700||Mallory and Irvine~climbed the North Face,||
4418700||4420700||up towards the summit ridge,||
4420700||4422900||where the Second Step~blocked their path.||
4428100||4432000||We got to the ridge~just on schedule, right after dawn.||
4435900||4437800||Absolutely wonderful.||
4470500||4474800||At 12:50 on June 8, 1924,||
4474800||4479100||support climber Noel Odell~sighted Mallory and Irvine||
4479200||4481000||through a gap in the clouds.||
4484500||4488900||"My eyes became fixed~on a tiny black dot,||
4489000||4493200||a short distance from the base~of the final pyramid.||
4493200||4495800||Another moved up to join it.||
4495800||4500600||They were moving expeditiously,~as if to make up for lost time.||
4500700||4505300||Then the whole~fascinating vision vanished,||
4505500||4508200||enveloped in a cloud."||
4513900||4516500||Mallory and Irvine were missing.||
4518800||4521800||"No trace can be found...||
4521800||4523700||Awaiting orders."||
4526000||4529100||Instead of capturing~their victorious ascent,||
4529200||4533700||cameraman John Noel~had to film the search for them.||
4537800||4542300||Days later, blankets laid out~as a cross in the snow||
4542600||4546200||signaled the devastating news.||
4546200||4550700||Mallory and Irvine were lost,~presumed dead.||
4566700||4571700||Mrs Mallory,~Herschel House, Cambridge...||
4571700||4576200||Committee deeply regret~receive bad news.||
4576300||4580200||Everest expedition today...||
4580300||4582200||Your husband killed...||
4582300||4584100||Last climb.||
4584200||4587700||Committee offer you and family~heartfelt sympathy.||
4592200||4595000||Ruth received~the news one evening.||
4595000||4597600||She decided not~to tell her children that night||
4597700||4599100||because they'd already gone to bed.||
4599200||4601100||She actually went to bed herself||
4601100||4603000||and slept with~that terrible knowledge,||
4603000||4606900||then in morning woke them up~and took them into her bed,||
4606900||4609300||and told them this terrible news.||
4611000||4615800||"George's spirit~was ready for another life,||
4615800||4620300||and his way of going to it~was very beautiful.||
4620300||4624200||I know so absolutely~he could not have failed||
4624300||4628200||in courage or self-sacrifice.||
4628300||4631900||If only it hadn't happened.||
4631900||4634000||It so easily might not have."||
4638700||4644800||The golden age of exploration~had ended in tragedy.||
4644900||4649100||The fallen hero was~mourned by King and country.||
4652700||4655200||It must have been~an extraordinary day,||
4655300||4659800||the bells ringing out~around Britain in mourning...||
4659900||4663500||And then~a memorial service in St Paul's,||
4663700||4666500||the mourners packing the pews||
4666700||4668800||and speeches given~in Mallory's honor.||
4674400||4679700||Mallory, the man,~soon became Mallory, the legend.||
4679700||4686200||Many people were convinced~he had reached the top of Everest.||
4686300||4692000||But to summit, he would first have had~to free-climb the Second Step.||
4694300||4700200||On June 14th our expedition~reached the Second Step -||
4700300||4706200||this formidable rock face that~stood between Mallory and the summit.||
4708800||4712100||The Sherpas cleared the fixed-ropes~and hauled the ladder away,||
4712200||4716200||restoring the Second Step~to what it was like in 1924.||
4722200||4729500||Goal is today, pull the ladders up~and climb it free -||
4729800||4732300||that is without the assistance~of the Chinese ladder.||
4760100||4761800||This whole time on the expedition||
4761800||4765600||I knew it was going to~come down to this half hour,||
4765800||4770000||on a cliff band at 28,300 feet.||
4770100||4773200||Could I do it in the form~that Mallory and Irvine||
4773200||4776000||would have encountered it,~free of any ladder,||
4776100||4781000||free of any rope,~free of any indication of man?||
4781100||4784000||You have the whole~North Face of Mount Everest||
4784100||4787200||all the way down to the~central Rongbuk glacier below you.||
4789200||4791900||Seven, eight-thousand feet of exposure.||
4792000||4794000||God, what am I doing?||
4808000||4809600||Just like Mallory and Irvine,||
4809800||4812100||Leo and I were tied together.||
4814400||4816200||It's the brotherhood of the rope.||
4832100||4834400||Imagine this...||
4834400||4840100||June 8, 1924.||
4877000||4878000||Whoa!||
4889200||4890700||You okay?||
4890900||4892300||Yeah...||
4892400||4893600||Man!||
4893600||4896200||What happened?||
4896200||4897500||Bad step.||
4900300||4902900||Had I not caught myself,||
4903000||4906000||there's a good chance~I could have fallen over the edge,||
4906100||4908200||pulled Leo off of the mountain||
4908300||4912000||and fallen 7,000 feet~to the central Rongbuk glacier.||
4914100||4915700||I think it shook him up somewhat||
4915900||4918200||and he ended up~spending quite a long time||
4918200||4921400||figuring out what to do next,~recomposing himself.||
4921500||4923500||I mean, I'd say at least 20 minutes.||
4924500||4927000||Want to stand on my shoulders?||
4928400||4930300||I'm going to give it another go.||
4934200||4939100||My job was to...~climb the Second Step.||
4939200||4943100||I knew that I had to~try it from a different angle.||
5019600||5021200||Okay...||
5021200||5022400||High step...||
5052200||5054200||I think I got it, Leo.||
5054300||5055600||I think I got it...||
5062300||5063700||Aaaahhh!||
5096200||5099700||After eight years~of keeping me awake at night||
5099700||5105900||and being the 90 feet of climbing~that I had to get done...||
5106100||5107700||I got the Second Step.||
5119300||5120500||I can't breathe.||
5124300||5128700||I realized that my toes~had gone completely numb.||
5128700||5131300||My biggest fear~through this whole experience||
5131300||5134800||has been getting frostbite~in my toes.||
5134900||5138200||I was just concerned about~getting to the top of the Second Step||
5138200||5139900||as quickly as I possibly could.||
5148200||5151300||I thought about Mallory.||
5151400||5153900||Our ascent of the Second Step||
5153900||5158500||opens up the possibility~that they could have pulled it off.||
5162500||5165000||Earlier I was under the impression~that the Second Step||
5165200||5168600||was an impossibility~for climbers of that time.||
5168600||5171400||Now I'm changed on that.||
5171500||5174800||They definitely were~capable of doing it.||
5177200||5181600||The Second Step is not too much~of an obstacle for them to overcome.||
5206400||5209000||They were determined,||
5209200||5213500||and if they were strong~and they were moving quickly,||
5213500||5215900||there's a chance~they made it to the top.||
5218900||5221000||"Dear one,||
5221300||5225600||I will be thinking of you~as you set off for the summit.||
5225700||5229000||I know you can achieve~your wildest dream."||
5248300||5251400||"If we get within~200 yards or so||
5251400||5253500||of the top of Everest,||
5253600||5257600||we shall go...||
5257700||5261900||And if it's a one-way ticket,~so be it."||
5314900||5318600||Eight years after I found~the body of George Mallory,||
5318600||5321400||the circle is complete.||
5326800||5330500||A few hours before~the monsoon closed in,||
5330500||5333900||Leo and I summitted Mount Everest.||
5337700||5342100||And we have shown~that these could have been||
5342100||5345600||Mallory and Irvine's final footsteps.||
5356900||5362200||"Is this the summit crowning the day?||
5362400||5367000||How cool and how quiet...||
5367100||5372900||Have we vanquished an enemy?||
5373000||5375500||None but ourselves?"||
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